Talerddig passing loop on the single-line but fast Shrewsbury to Machynlleth mid Wales line
I have just returned from what is becoming an annual pilgrimage to
Porthmadog to ride the Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland railways, travelling
Arriva Wales from Wilmslow, via Shrewsbury and Machynlleth, and up the Cambrian
Coast on that wonderfully scenic line through Towyn, Barmouth, and Harlech to
Porthmadoc.
Friog, overlooking Fairbourne and Barmouth from the train on the Cambrian Coast line
Approaching Porthmadog the National Rail line crosses the 2 foot gauge Welsh Highland Railway on a flat crossing. I'll be crossing here tomorrow morning on the narrow gauge.
I stayed two nights in Porthmadog,
getting there about lunchtime in time to walk through the town to Harbour
Station to buy my tickets for the two narrow gauge railway trips (saving around
£45 with my Heritage Rail Card). I spent Tuesday afternoon on a return trip the
length of the Ffestiniog Railway to Blaenau Ffestiniog. Double Fairlie 'David
Lloyd George' was our loco, and very splendid she was, superbly turned out with
gleaming brasswork and spotless paint.
Double Fairlie locomotive 'David Lloyd George' at the head of our Ffestiniog Railway train in Harbour Station, Tuesday afternoon. The Cob has been widened here to accommodate the Welsh Highland Railway lines and platform, and the new signal box and relay room on the right.
The passenger stock too is of a very
high standard, and there is an efficient and friendly at-seat snack and drink
service. It was a lovely afternoon, warm and reasonably sunny, with the train
moderately busy despite being out of school holiday season.
Photographed through a window toplight, our loco climbs the constant up-gradient of the line from sea level to the terminus at Blaenau Ffestiniog, with a nice steady bark from both chimneys
The gradient is ever upwards so it's hard work for the loco (and fireman, with two fire boxes and trying to remember which of the eight corners he last fired!)
'David Lloyd George' starts the climb of the Dduallt Spiral
The spiral and a new tunnel were built to raise the line to a higher level after a hydro power station lake drowned much of the original track bed. Before the lake, the original track bed can be seen on its embankment at a lower level than the current track (Click on the picture for a larger image).
The hydro power station lake from the dam, which the train crosses
Having taken water and run-round at Blaenau Ffestiniog, we pause at Tanygrisiau on the descent back to the coast
The railway clings to the valley side for most of its route
Back at Porthmadog, our loco shunts its stock into a station road for overnight stabling
I noticed a group of Victorian re-enactors on the station who had travelled in on the Welsh Highland Railway train from Caernarfon
A trip on the
Ffestinniog is always enjoyable and this was no exception; but far better was
to come the next day.
Wednesday was forecast to be a stunner, and it was! Dawning bright and
warm, the temperature rose to the mid 20s by early afternoon with a cloudless
blue sky, the heat from the low autumn sun quite noticeable. This was my 'Welsh
Highland' day, a return trip right across the peninsula from Pothmadog, through
Snowdonia, to Caernarfon and back on my favourite Welsh narrow gauge railway,
and I could not have asked for better. I have seen this line in low cloud and
rain, and in good weather too, with Snowdon clearly visible, but I have never
before seen it on a day as superb as today. I bagged a seat in the open-sided
coach, which soon filled up.
Porthmadog Harbour on Wednesday morning; what a superb day!
While waiting for my Welsh Highland Railway train to run in from the sheds at Boston Lodge, I had a chat with the driver of 'David Lloyd George', which was once again one of the locos rostered for Ffestiniog Railway trains as it was yesterday. The other Ffestiniog loco yesterday was replica Lynton & Barnstaple Railway Manning Wardle 'Lyd', and today the second loco is large Quarry Hunslet 'Blanche'.
Snowdon, the pointy mountain on the left, seen from Porthmadog station on this glorious morning
Our Welsh Highland Railway train runs in from the sheds at Boston Lodge, on the other side of the Cob
Our loco was Garrett NG143, built in Manchester as late as 1958, the very last Beyer Peacock Garrett out of Gorton works. It spent its working life in South Africa. These splendid machines are ideal
for this line, being powerful to haul long trains up the steep gradients, and
their articulated configuration allowing them to negotiate the sharp curves of the
line while their 2-6-2 + 2-6-2 (so 12 driving wheels) wheel arrangement is well suited to using their
power without excessive slipping. They are modern steam locomotives with a generous area of superheat.
It being a fabulous hot day, I chose to sit in the open-sided coach (the 'windows' are un-glazed)
There are good views of Snowdon even before the train begins its climb from the flatlands of the Glaslyn valley
Once she hit the climb up though Nantmor NG143’s bark was most
impressive, her chimney blasting a blizzard of brilliantly-sunlit golden leaves
from the trees, especially as she occasionally ‘lost her feet’ in a brief
flurry of slipping. The low sun brought out the best of the fabulous autumn
tints, and the long shadows picked out the rugged landscape, especially through
the picturesque Aberglaslyn pass.
Beginning the climb up to the Aberglaslyn Pass
The Aberglaslyn Pass
At Beddgert we pass the opposite direction train, also Garrett-hauled
Snowdon, on the left
A Garrett in the wilderness....
On the descent now, approaching Llyn Cwellyn
Looking back towards The Rhinogs
What a great day to be in the 'open' coach!
Lleyn Cwellyn
NG143 at Dinas....
....To take on coal
A view of Caernarfon Castle you can only get from the train
Built in Gorton, Manchester, as late as 1958 these are modern steam locomotives with a generous amount of superheat. NG143 was in fact the last Garrett built by Beyer Peacock at Gorton.
The loco spent its working life in South Africa
The big Garrett detached from its train at Caernarfon, ready to run-round for the return journey
The low sun casts long shadows on NG143, including mine!
The new Welsh Highland Railway station in Caernarfon is not yet ready for use. It's good to see the trackbed to the tunnel under the town is still unobstructed; next stop Bangor? (Click on the picture for a larger image to see the tunnel, to the right of the station buildings, more clearly). This tunnel, and indeed the WHR trackbed from here to Dinas, used to carry the standard gauge railway from Bangor to Afon Wen, a Beeching closure of the early '60s.
Snowdon again, seen on the return journey
The afternoon sun gets lower in the sky as we head south, the Rhinogs on the horizon again
Llyn Cwellyn seen as we climb towards the summit of the line
What a cracking day!
Passing the opposite direction train allows a look at its 'open' coach, identical to the one I am in. It's as well patronised as the one on our train on this wonderful day.
It's a long day out; heaven for us narrow gauge enthusiasts but maybe a bit much for some!
On the descent by the River Glaslyn
Inside our 'open' coach
That flat crossing of the main line again, seen from he narrow gauge this time
The amazing weather had brought out the customers, and the train was full. Indeed, on the return trip some passengers had to stand.
Back at Porthmadog I sat in sunshine enjoying a pint of ‘Snowdonia’ outside Spooner’s Bar and contemplated my wonderful two days of Welch narrow gauge, while watching the Ffestiniog Double Farlie shunt its stock for overnight stabling into a station road.
Back at Porthmadog 'David Lloyd George' is preparing to shunt its Ffestiniog Railway train for overnight stabling in a station road
The Double Fairlie's driver concentrates as he buffers up to the stock, reverser in 'full back' gear
Reverser 'forward' again, ready to move the stock. Of course on a double engine 'forward' and 'reverse' only has meaning relative to which end of the loco is attached to the train!
The Ffestiniog stock stabled for the night, I enjoy a pint of 'Snowdonia' outside Spooner's Bar, and contemplate a great two days on these amazing little railways
What a difference a day makes.... On the way home next day, rain near Harlech seen from the Arriva Wales train heading down to Machynlleth
Barmouth Bridge. Bit gloomier than yesterday!
Next morning an Arriva Wales train took me home along the Cambrian Coast.
But what a difference a day makes! By Harlech we were in heavy rain..... And next
day, the Friday, all services on the FR, WHR, and Cambrian Coast were cancelled
due forecast 70mph winds and heavy rain!
Lucky or what?
.
No comments:
Post a Comment